I picked up a handful of 624 bearings yesterday, as well as an M10 brass bolt. I drilled a hole down the bolt (by hand) and tapped it with an M4 tap, and cut it to length, before cutting slots into the thread lengthwise using the Dremel tool. It is not perfect (the hole is ever so slightly eccentric) and the surface is rougher than I would like it to be, but for the moment it will drive filament and this is what I need. I will have access to a lathe late next week, then I will re-do the drive gear.
I was not able to fit the 4mm OD PTFE tube through the newly acquired 6mm OD (4mm ID) tube, even after shaving the thinner tube to size by pulling it through a 4mm hole drilled into a piece of steel, so I only sheathed the two ends (approximately 6 inches each side) in the thicker tube. The centre part of the Bowden tube is single tube only. I hope this is enough to allow the conical compression sleeve and the M6 nut on either end of the Bowden tube to grip the tube.
The wiring of the RAMPS board must be one of the most daunting aspects of a RepRap printer, for non-electronically minded builders, in my opinion. The multitude of options make a single instruction manual practically impossible, and the online resources I have found only covers mechanical and opto-isolated (separate board) endstops, so the specified Hall-effect device endstops needed some reading of the data sheets.
Luckily, the Hall effect sensors can be wired to the RAMPS board by a single wire, and the sensors need 12V and ground as well (common on all three endstops). The input on the RAMPS board is already referenced to ground, so a single signal wire should do.
Testing will proceed with caution, as it is possible that I may have done something silly like swapping endstop signals, and I don't want the X-axis, for example, to start moving moving towards the endstop but looking at, say, the Z-axis signal (which will never trigger if only the X-axis motor is running).
No comments:
Post a Comment